Option Sport II - Climbing

Year
3
Academic year
2019-2020
Code
01008446
Subject Area
Sport Sciences
Language of Instruction
Portuguese
Mode of Delivery
Face-to-face
Duration
SEMESTRIAL
ECTS Credits
6.0
Type
Elective
Level
1st Cycle Studies

Recommended Prerequisites

To attend to the Sports Option II – Climbing subject the students have to demonstrate minimum competency equal to that required at the end of  Sports Option I – Climbing subject of the degree in Sports Science from FCDEF-UC, which are the following:


in different climbing one pitch venues
- Climbing on sight and leading, as well as belaying other climbers, on bolted routes with a minimum of 6a grade (French Grading System)

Climbing on sight and leading, as well as belaying other climbers, on non bolted routes with a minimum of V/ V+ grade (French Grading System), always demonstrating safety and efficacy in all actions
- Equipping routes to climb in top-rope/bottom-roping
- To rescue climbers in different situations
- Choose areas for rock climbing sessions, according to the climbers level.
- Lead rock climbing sessions

Teaching Methods

Expository methods, Independent Work, Co-work tasks, Teamwork, Special Activities.

Learning Outcomes

Enable students:
- to plan and carry out technical and  tactical climbing teaching
- to plan and organize activities for teaching and practice of climbing


preparing them for the following skills:
- to progress in safety and efficacy throughout rock routes
- to plan climbing teaching and teaching-learning evaluation process in any type of rock venue
- control of logistics
- Assess the possibilities of conducting the activity in the chosen location.
- Organize the practice of rock climbing in order to achieve the proposed sports objective, guaranteeing climbers safety.

Work Placement(s)

No

Syllabus

. Movement Technique
- How to teach the movements
- How do we learn the movements
- Progressions
- Ideal places to practice
- Movements repetition
- Big-Wall techniques
- How  "to rest" while climbing

- How to improve acquired skills

- How to teach on a climbing route

 


. Venues:
- Multi pitch routes

-Aid climbing routes


. Equipment
All equipment covered  Sports Option I - Climbing
+
- ladders
- portaledges  and  suspension seats

-pulleys
- Other gear for fixing intermediate points and tops

 

. Working with ropes and safety techniques
- other knots

- Climbing on multi pitch routes

- how to place intermediate protections

- how to install tops

- belay one or more climbers


- Considerations for instruction in either Multi Pitch and Aid Climbing routes

- Considerations for leading in either Multi Pitch and Aid Climbing routes

 

. Accidents
- How to avoid accidents

- rescue gear

- rescue techniques

- solving problems in either Multi Pitch and Aid Climbing routes

Assessment Methods

Continuous
Theoretical evaluation: 50.0%
Practical assessment: 50.0%

Final
Theoretical evaluation: 25.0%
Practical assessment: 75.0%

Bibliography

Agustín, Miguel, et al, Certificado de Iniciación al Montañismo, 1ª edição,  Huesca, Barrabés Editorial,  2001

Bastide, Pascal, et autres, Manuel Technique de Descente de Canyon, Cagnes sur Mer, Spelunca Librarie Editions, 1999

Beroujon, Yves, et autres, Juegos de Escalada, 1ª edição, Barcelona, Inde Publicaciones, 1999

Fasulo, David, Autorrescate, 1ª edição, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 1998

Heckmair, A., Alpiniste, Edition Guérin, Chamonix, 1998

Hoffman, Michael, Manual de Escalada, 4ª edição em castelhano, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 1997

Luebben, Craig, Nudos para escaladores, 2ª edição em castelhano, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 1995

Macia, David, Planificación del entrenamiento en escalada deportiva, 1ª edição, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 2002

Murcia, Máximo, Prevención Seguridad y Autorrescate, 1ª edição, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 1996

McMillan, Neville, Care and Maintenance, 1ª edição, Manchester, edições BMC, 2001

Núñez, Tino, Cuerdas y nudos de alta resistencia, 1ª edição em castellano, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 2002

Núnez, Tino, e Lujan, Ignacio, Como escalar vias de vários largos, 3ª edição, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 2004

Richardson, Alun, Rock Climbing for instructors, 1ª edição, Marlborough, The Crowood Press Ltd, 2001

Santamaría, Luis, Escalada artificial – teoria y prática,  1ª edição, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 2002

Shubert, Pit, Seguridad y Riesgo, 1º edição em Castelhano, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 1996

Winter, Stefan, Escalada deportiva con niños y adolescentes, 1ª edição, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 2000