Sports Option I - Climbing
3
2019-2020
01008347
Sport Sciences
Portuguese
Face-to-face
SEMESTRIAL
6.0
Elective
1st Cycle Studies
Recommended Prerequisites
To attend to the Sports Option I – Climbing subject the students have to demonstrate minimum competency equal to that required at the end of Climbing subject of the degree in Sports Science from UC-FCDEF, which are the following:
- Place a rope on top-rope, through access to the top of the wall, always maintaining safety
- Climbing, and belaying other climbers, on top-rope/bottom-roping on routes graded IV / IV +, always demonstrating safety and efficacy in all actions
- Place a rope for abseil down using bolted tops, knowing how to install themselves and abseil down safely, as well as making other climbers abseil down.
- lead climbing sessions on top-rope/bottom-roping and on Bouldering.
. Knowing the general history of climbing and be familiar with the equipment and resources specific of this modality.
Teaching Methods
Expository methods, Independent Work, Co-work tasks, Teamwork, Special Activities.
Learning Outcomes
Enable students with the skills necessary to carry out teaching, instruction and guiding other climbers in climbing areas¹, up to one pitch.
Knowing the history and evolution of climbing as well as all equipment and resources specific of this modality.
¹ - ACS/ACW, bolted venues and non bolted venues.
Work Placement(s)
NoSyllabus
. Climbing history
. Different forms of Climbing
. Movement Technique
- How to teach the movements
- How do we learn the movements
- Progressions
- Specific warm up, cool down and stretching
- Movements repetition
- Relationship between body position and footwork
- Footwork
- How to use hands
- Importance of the forces opposition
- Importance of body position
- How "to rest" while climbing
- Dynamic movements
- How “to read" (anticipate) movements
- How to improve acquired skills
- How to teach on a climbing route
- panic/fear control
- Falls technique
- Communication in Climbing
. Venues:
- Artificial Climbing Structures/Walls (ACS/ACW)
-Natural venues (bolted and non bolted)
. Equipment
- Dynamic of forces and falls
- ropes
- auxiliary ropes
- footwear
- seat harness
- carabiners
- Equipment for belaying and for abseil down
- helmet
- bolts
- pitons
- nuts
- camming devices
- devices for solo climbing
- the use of magnesium carbonate
. Working with ropes and safety techniques
- knots for tie in
- self-locking knots
- other knots
- belaying a climber leading
- abseiling down leading
- Climbing on one pitch routes
- how to place intermediate protections
- how to install tops
- Considerations for instruction in Sport Climbing routes
- Considerations for instruction in Non Bolted Routes (One Pitch)
- Considerations for leading climbing
. Accidents
- How to avoid accidents
Assessment Methods
Final
Theoretical evaluation: 25.0%
Practical assessment: 75.0%
Continuous
Theoretical evaluation: 40.0%
Practical assessment: 60.0%
Bibliography
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Asselin, J.M., Le voyage vers l’ímpossible, in Vertical nº 28, Julho/Agosto 1990
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Beroujon, Yves, et autres, Juegos de Escalada, 1ª edição, Barcelona, Inde Publicaciones, 1999
Droyer, J.C, Naissance d’une pratique sportive autonomique : L’escalade libre, in Escalade 89, actas do Collogne de l’ENSA, Chamonix, 1989, Editions Actio, Joinville-le-Pont, 1991
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Shubert, Pit, Seguridad y Riesgo, 1º edição em Castelhano, Madrid, Ediciones Desnível, 1996
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